Ready for departure from the Royal Motor Yacht Club, Pittwater, Sydney, our 3rd hand Peter Cole (Master of the James Craig, Peter’s previous Navy Captain and all round good bloke) joined us early on Monday 14.   After a farewell by the owner of the Swanson Classic CAMILLE, Geoff Docker, we headed out bound for the Roaring Forties.

The new crew ready for departure

 

As there was an East Coast low pressure system threatening to form on Wed evening we decided to make Eden our first leg destination then wait for a weather window to safely cross Bass Strait.  It proved a wise decision with a strong front passing after we had arrived in Eden late on Tuesday night.

 

On Wednesday after a well deserved lie in we located the Lamercraft’s (friend of Peter C) mooring so we could ride out the blow with peace of mind.  Later we had a shower at the public facilities adjacent to the main wharf, then a walk around town followed by the best fish and chips on the NSW south coast.

 

A good looking local prepares for the storm

Thursday saw the skies looking grey and still threatening, with the wind still building and a few showers falling.  Even the large ships take this weather seriously.

Sheltering from the gale

 

And after hearing Peter C’s daughter & granddaughter on the phone singing “Happy Birthday” his cover was blown, during dinner with his shipmates at the local Chinese restaurant. After a wet dinghy ride home an impromptu birthday party back onboard – candles, cake and red wine.  Happy Birthday Peter for the 18th !!!!  On Friday with the weather improving we decided that we would sail the next morning.  So after a final shop for victuals, a nice lunch at the Eden Fishermans Club and visit to the local marine rescue station we were ready for Bass Strait.

 

The plan was perfect,and the weather very good.  We cast off the mooring at 0630 Sat, and as we sailed past Green Cape lighthouse the sun came out.

 

Winter cruising on NSW far south coast off Green Cape

 

 On Sunday the wind dropped right out and the sea became glassy, as we were escorted by albatross on our southward passage.  The sunset rewarded us with a magnificent ‘green flash’  – simply amazing. 

 

The Soutern Sentinel

 

The further south we went the warmer and calmer the sea became, so much so that Peter C just couldn’t keep his kit on, and upon sighting Tasmania was found in tee-shirt on the foredeck!!

 

 

A Tasmanian winter’s day

 We anchored in Wineglass Bay at 4.30 pm on Mon 22 and decided to have a walk on the beach as it was so beautiful.  The weather was so good that some other visitors to the national park were swimming!!

Wineglass Bay – picture perfect

 

Sequoia in home waters

As  Peter C needed to fly back to Sydney on Wednesday, and  wanting to catch up with infamous persons from our Navy days we left Wineglass on Tue morning and had a fabulous sail in a stiff breeze and sunny conditions to Triabunna – the home of the crayfish hypnotising Rex Kube.  We phoned him enroute and he came down to the boat for a beer before heading off to the pub for dinner.  Rex’s wife Helen joined us, and we had a lovely evening – good food, local wine (Bay of Fires Sparkling), and excellent company, true stories, and many laughs.  Some kind person vanished the bill.

Peter C, Rex Kube and Peter S having a well earned beer

Pete Cole left us early the next morning to bus and fly back to Sydney.  Good timing, as another series of cold fronts and strong winds meant the remaining crew were weatherbound for a couple of days at least.  So off to the cafe for latte, laundry and window shopping !!  Very relaxing, and a time to reflect on what we have done so far since April. Two Bass Strait crossings, a Barrier Reef holiday with lots of stops in between (and more still to be done) and over 3,500 nautical miles (about 7,000 km) under the hull – very rewarding.  Whilst its not yet over, our holiday is in the twilight phase, and we are still having a great time – and having fun!!

Stay tuned !!  There’s more . . . .

PS:  Click the tab ‘About SEQUOIA’ on the front page – to see some of Sequoia’s Swanson sisters and cousins.

 

 

So after a quiet night at anchor beside the historic finger pier at Coffs Harbour, we then weighed anchor to fuel and then go alongside at the marina.  What a saga!!  We had to wait for about 2 hours going around in small circles until the ‘fishermen’ were kind enough to make space for us to fuel.  That said – once started it all was easy, and then over to the marina – where we were welcomed like long lost friends.

The day was mainly a job day – a few checks to do on the engine, washing (us and the laundry), defrosting the fridge (a big job), and then grocery shopping for fresh milk and bread.

Then we were off again first thing Wed 3, to be escorted to Sydney by our whale friends, that seemed now to be heading southwards.

The way to Sydney is this way !!

Because of the weather forecast showing that another east coast low pressure system might form off the coast we decided not to stop for sight seeing visits on the way south, lest we get stuck somewhere, rather push on and then have a bit longer in Sydney.  So late afternoon on Wed 4 we anchored for an overnight rest stop at Fingal Bay outside Port Stephens, before continuing south early the next morning.

As we approached the heads to Broken Bay we sighted the Sail Train Ship Young Endeavour and had a bit of a chat – only to find that one of the crew was from Kettering (where our sailing club is) and another from Coningham (where Peter’s Parks office manages a nature reserve) – very Tasmanian !!

STS Young Endeavour

Darkness just after sunset on Fri 5 was upon us as we entered Broken Bay, to find the second last mooring buoy in Morning Bay – a very pretty little bay just down and across from Palm Beach.

On Saturday evening we met friends Tony and Barb at the Royal Motor Yacht Club for dinner (so Peter could watch the Wallabys put up a brave face against the All Blacks) which was really nice.  Apart from the footy – a pleasant evening was had by all; good food, wine and company.

The next day our friend Wendy joined us again (last time Good Friday) with her grand-daughter Monique for a lunch sail  RMYC where we had subsequently organised a mooring for the week.

Monique and Nandy on the water

The following day we had a free day around the Pittwater and spotted a couple of Swanson 38s- sisters to SEQUOIA

                

      Sequoia’s sisters

 

 

 

 

On Tue 9, another friend Penny joined us for a day sail to Palm Beach, an exciting dinghy transfer, and yummy lunch ashore. A lovely relaxing day.  Then the following morning we were picked up by Wendy and taken to the big smoke.  Wendy had kindly offered for us to stay a few days. So we were able to do all those big city things; Wed night at Cirque Du Soleil – amazing, a visit to the Navy’s premier officer’s mess at HMAS WATSON on the end of South Head for lunch on Thursday before a cliffside walk near Bronte.

Mess mates

 On Friday Peter’s girls joined us for dinner, so we went to our favourite Thai restaurant. The verdict was the food was as good as ever – and the desserts are still very yummy !

Desserts at Simple and Irresistible

 

Saturday was the North Sydney markets because it was the 2nd Saturday of the month – a blast from the past when we used to live here and regularly go along.

 

Later we met Ramiro, Carolyn and 1 year old Rennae for coffee – great to catch up.

 

Carolyn, Rennae & Ramiro

 

And to prove that you could fit more into Saturday we went out with Wendy for drinks and dinner – phew.

 

Unfortunately – reality set in on Sunday, and it was back to the boat for engine checks, grocery shopping, packing and preparing the boat to sail south on Monday morning, with  our new crew member, Peter Cole.

 

Next stop . . . . Eden (we hope)

 

 

So, after the Stafford family holiday it was time to return to the boat and back to sea, but with a good dose of the NSW lurgy. Everyone caught the flu from the kids, and it was now Peter’s turn.  Being at sea for the past months we had been isolated from coughs and colds. Whilst not 100% well, we still sailed as planned to try and find our own whale in Hervey Bay – but alas they eluded us and we entered the Great Sandy Strait whale-less.

As a very deep east coast low pressure system was developing (giving NSW dreadful weather) we stayed put for safety at Gary’s Anchorage, behind Fraser Island-  truly beautiful.

Sunset at Gary's Anchorage (whilst weatherbound!!)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

On the second day at the anchorage we went for a long bushwalk, and luckily found this sign at the end of the walk.

 

Dingoes and Crocodiles !! Hmmm

 

Regardless, Fraser Island is a great place and very beautiful.

 

The following day we were in the dinghy trying to catch our dinner

– but no luck was to be had.

 

 

 

 

 

 

So on Sunday 24 Jul we moved down to Pelican Bay – at Inskip Point, just inside the Wide Bay bar, ready for our crossing once the white water stopped blocking our path.  We saw the Bay dolphins lolling about. The following afternoon at 4.00pm we ventured out, and with the 2 meter SE swell, but no wind the bar was bumpy but safe – Kaylee just doesnt like bars – but she hung in there and did well.

 

After a smooth motor-sailing on glassy seas dodging fishing boats and the odd car carrier at close range overnight, we were met with a truly beautiful day on Tue 26 when we saw our first groups of wild whales travelling north – yeah.

 

Humpback whales travelling north off Stradbroke Island

 

So after an interesting crossing of the Gold Coast seaway (watch the 7th wave) we fuelled, watered and got rid of our rubbish at the Southport Yacht Club, before anchoring right near Australia Fair (thanks for the tip Ants & Jane) where there is a brand new amenities block in the Broadwater Parklands, free hot showers 50 metres from the anchorage, (immaculate clean).

 

We did our grocery shopping the next morning before meeting Peter’s Aunty Rosemary for morning tea.  The citrus tarts were just so yummy !!

 

And so the adventure continued with SEQUOIA again at sea on Thu 28 bound for Iluka (on the north side of the Clarence River opposite Yamba).  Think Grafton.  Aaagh – another bar, but after a lousy trip with bouncy weather on the nose, we crossed the bar in perfect conditions and discovered a gem of a place.

 

Iluka is a fantastic stop; helped by locals,  esp Ian, who took us home for a hot shower at his place, to the fish co-op with the best local fresh prawns EVER !!

(apparently endorsed as such by Master Chef – if your into that c…p).

 

We stayed anchored at Iluka for 3 nights, and shared a number of experiences with fellow yachtie, young Dan in PEGASUS solo sailing his new boat northbound for Mooloolaba.  The weekend highlights included a great dinner at the most authentic Aussie pub in Australia’ , a Sunday river cruise on our boat up to the bridge at Harwood and tour of Yamba, and dinner fresh cooked from the fishing co-op.

 

Rainforest walk - Iluka - Central East Coast Rainforest World Heritage Area

We also had a great bushwalk in the adjacent World Heritage listed coastal rain forest, out ot the Iluka Bluff (recommended), before spotting this special mother bird, on top of the mobile phone tower in town.  Surely this was a headache for Telstra when they built their tower.

A room with a view for Osprey nest

 

On Mon 1 Aug we sailed in loose company with PEGASUS, our next stop Coffs Harbour.

 

Dan's PEGASUS departs Iluka

We had a great day at sea along the Coffs coast whale watching all day, including the HUGE one who tried to join us in the cockpit unannounced – bugger, we didn’t have the camera ready for that one – but we did get wet from his blow and saw the barnacles on his chin from very close range.  (who is wathcing who here?)  After recovering normal heart rate we continued on, threading our way south through the leading yachts of the Sydney to Gold Coast yacht race without incident arriving at the Coffs anchorage at 5.00 pm.

Going Down

The adventure continues, now that we have defrosted the fridge, and bought the lotto tickets; well we all have to have a dream. 

Next stop – Tuncurry before the northerly gales due on Thursday.

 

We had a hire car dropped off to us at the marina on Friday morning, so we could leave the boat and drive to Buderim to stay with Peter’s mum for a week.  Lucy and Alice were flying up from Sydney for the week (NSW school holidays), and Peter’s sister Wendy and her daughters Shayla and Mackenzie were also visiting from Hawaii.  In addition Peter’s brother David also lives on the sunshine coast so it planned to be big.

The Three Stooges

There were family meals, outings to the river parks, beach picnics (the girls didnt seem too interested in beach cricket !!), and a road trip to the Gold Coast to visit Peter’s Auntie Rosemary and some of her family.

The 'Stafford Clan' beach picnic

The four girl cousins had a fun time with each other, which was great as it was only the second time they had all been together, and the first time in 6 years.

The Four Musketeers

Lucy & Alice flew home on the Saturday afternoon, which proved to be really lucky as the airport was in chaos when we arrived, bad weather that morning meant flights had been cancelled left right and centre.  Anyway – all worked out well and a good time was had by all.

We drove back to the boat from the airport, to do essential chores like engine oil change, resupply food and stores before starting our next southbound leg through the Great Sandy Strait to Southport.

Early morning departure Cid Harbour

So we finally decided to brave the SE 25-30kt winds and leave the sanctuary of Airlie Beach, we left the marina mid-morning and sailed across the bumpy Whitsunday Passage to anchor for the evening at Cid Harbour.  So we had found the bare boat fleet of all shapes and sizes, there were 29 of them !!

On Saturday 2 Jul, we sailed early to get a start before the wind kicked in, but after passing Hamilton Island we were forced to accept we would not make it to Brampton Island that day straight into 2 m waves and 25 knots breeze right on the nose- hmm, so we tucked in at Shaw Island for the rest of  the afternoon and night.

The new sailing club building at Hamilton Island Marina

Sunday 3 Jul gave us a great start with a good wind as we sailed briskly through the Sir James Smith Group, and past Brampton.  We were making good progress until mid-afternoon as we neared Scawfell Isand and again the wind was right on the nose – we had acheived a good number of miles in not many hours, so we anchored and took rest; as the forecast for the next couple of days was good, and we thought we might have a big push.

Just after first light on Monday 4, we weighed anchor and stuck our nose around the eastern side of Scawfell and made a b-line to pass south of the Percy Group.  Yeah – calm seas and a good breeze, passing the twinkling of boats at anchor at Middle Percy around 11.00pm we kept heading south in perfectly calm conditions.  As there was a big navy exercise on it meant we could not stop at Pearl Bay, and the next morning had us about 35 nm north of Rosslyn Bay near Yeppoon – our planned fuel and rest stop. We arrived that afternoon.

So after a hot shower, we bussed to Yeppoon for fresh victuals, and chinese meal at our new favourite restaurant we had been to on Peter’s birthday (see 11 Jun story).

At 0730 the next morning Wed 6, we dredged our way through very low water to get fuel, and then sailed south for Bundaberg or …

At 2.00pm we crossed the Tropic of Capricorn which was a little sad having had such a nice time in the tropical waters.  We were off Gladstone that evening at 7.00pm again passing some VERY large ships but luckily they were at anchor and we about 5 miles further out to sea from them.  After a great overnight run, we were off Bundaberg first thing in the morning, so we decided to keep going and get to Hervey Bay marina on Thu afternoon.

The passage went really well, SEQUOIA didn’t miss a beat, and we did some long watches safely.  The showers were good, and the meal at the Hervey Bay Boat Club beside the marina was excellent.

Airlie Beach - step off to the Whitsunday Islands

A gentle sail across Whitsunday Passage, saw us arrive at Airlie Beach midday, refuelled Sequoia and anchored near the Whitsunday Sailing Club, & went ashore for 2 days “shore leave”, complete with spa & swimming pool.

Calm sunset - Airlie Beach

Spent the next couple of days catching up on chores and shopping, and exploring Airlie Beach and surrounds.  The “Lagoon” in the centre of the foreshore area was a great place to sit and relax, and read a book or paddle or both!  Airlie Beach is too small for a Post Office, but has at least 4 nightclubs, pubs and numerous facilities, necessary for ease of  backpacking.

The Lagoon – Airlie Beach

Met up with Catamaran Gecko, & had an enjoyable dinner with Anthony & Sarah in Airlie Beach, and exchanged cruising stories.  Due to leave, but a’hum, someone upstairs decided the weather shall now change from perfectly perfect to perfectly dismal, with no stops in between.  

Foreshore Markets - Sunday mornings Airlie Beach

For the next 6 days we managed living onboard while Sequoia sat snugly, anchored in the mud near the Whitsundy Sailing Club.  Meanwhile the wind just grew & grew in intensity, until taking the dinghy ashore for showers and leg stretch was becoming uncomfortable & difficult. 

 

We enjoyed a lovely lunch onboard Gecko with Sarah and Anthony, and a fair soaking afterward indicated the wind had not abated on Sunday.  An absolute salt water drenching the next day indicated my time at anchor was fast drawing to a close.  Happy Birthday – Marina here we come.   Birthday Party onboard Sequoia, the Captain provided Champagne cocktails as well as dinner, and guests Anthony & Sarah snuck in an extra large pavlova, complete with candles.

Sailing boats at anchor – a deceptive calm Airlie Beach

Airlie Beach is the northern most destination this trip, so it is all south from here.   Sequoia’s next stop . . . .   south of here

Yacht Condor – reef chartering

 Headed over to the northern bays of Hook Island for snorkelling, and came across Condor returning from a night on the outer Great Barrier Reef.  The blue fine sunny days rolled on, one after the other.

Maureen's Cove - great snorkelling here

Fantastic sheltered snorkel at Maureen’s Cove, as Manta Ray Bay was quite windy with a ripping tide.  Many fish of all shapes and colours and fantasic soft and hard corals, “stags” with purple tips and all sorts of variant on “brains” as well as a little orange and purple striped fluttering creature – like a swimming ribbon, maybe a “spanish dancer”, some kind of fancy non-conformist underwater animal. 

 

The beach here was wholly constituted of broken coral, rather than sand. 

A no anchoring, no fishing area, with plenty of moorings set up by Marine Parks to avoid the damage anchors cause ripping into the fragile coral. From under the water-line we could see a couple of spots where in the past, damage was caused. 

 

Nearby Butterfly Bay was the chosen overnight spot.  The hardier crew snokelled again, while others sat in the dinghy and read a book.

 

 

Yacht Condor - heading for home port , Airlie Beach

 

The brilliant blue sea and sky, coupled with calm warm weather was devine and seemingly endless.  Next overnight anchorage was at Cateran Bay at Border Island, a quiet place where we managed to shake off the larger charter tours, for the night anyway. On the way up Sequoia was buzzed by 2 RAAF Hercules, after they flew over Whitehaven Beach, apparently wanted a closer view of sailing on a Sunday afternoon in the Whitsundays.

Brilliant blue - Sunday afternoon fun

Fossilised coral in the rocks on the beach indicate this place has been pretty much the same for quite a few millenia I would suggest.  Native orchids were growing in the Hoop Pines on the shore, a pleasant reminder we are exploring in the tropics.

Coral - from above the water

Two catermarans, one chartered and one private hooked onto the other moorings overnight.  Chartered yachts and catermarans – “bare boats” are all the rage here, outrageously expensive & out & about everywhere, providing free amusement for others, especially on the radio skeds. . “what does the fresh waste alarm mean ? – over & out”.

Afternoon light - boats at anchor Border Island

Some snorkelling was undertaken followed by a rather vigorous hike up quite a steep hill, described as a saddle, on a very over-grown track.  Anything bitey or nasty left us in peace and we were rewarded with a lovely view, when we dared to look back.   Hook Island is the large island in the background, our next stop.

 

Not all smooth sailing - hanging on

The trip from Shaw Island around to Whitsunday Island, avoiding the narrow inlet and the wind against tide, by going the long way around, left us with an unexpectedly rough challenge for the next few hours.  After regaining some equilibrium and scraping up some good humour, we anchored in Tongue Inlet behind Whitehaven Beach.

Snokelling - Tongue Bay

At 3pm we scored an overnight mooring buoy and then had a quick introduction to the group of commercial vessels of all shapes and sizes brimming with backpackers, that suddenly surrounded us and settled in as neighbours for the night.

The neighbours - come in all shapes & sizes!

Next morning we went ashore for the short bushwalk up to the lookout over Hill Inlet, (& inspected the PWS Gough loos).  The view over Hill Inlet and Whitehaven Beach was amazing.  The rainforest is very diverse here with vines and lillypillies, as well as Cycads, Hoop Pines and Grass Trees. 

MV Nautilus entering Hill Inlet

 The sand here is dazzling white quartz and the interp boards did explain the reason, something about significant age and bleaching. Down at waterlevel, there were lots of sting rays, and a few curlews.  No fish Nautilus later reported (!) don’t ask.

Inside Hill Inlet - at high tide

 

Next  stop – Border Island

Brampton Island butterflies

Arriving at Brampton Island in glorious sunshine and calm conditions ~ I noted through the binoculars a distinct lack of activity at the resort & no footprints on the beach – a somewhat de je vue’ moment  – as the Resort was closed!  After recovering from the dissappointment of no imminent cocktails, ice-creams or steaming hot showers, we rallied and packed the mandarins & the water bottle and set out for a walk ashore, as the Island was still there, resort or not.  Inititally we were greeted by a cloud of butteflies!  A gorgeous golden beach, & lagoon – but huge tides were still the order of the day, creating certain dinghy peril if you don’t leave it in the right spot.  Working out the right spot was a bit of a trick.

Sequoia at anchor ~ Brampton Island

On the Brampton Island web-site, the resort owners claim to be redeveloping and reopening in December 2011.  As there was clearly nil work in progress, and the perfectly acceptable existing buildings silent & falling into disrepair, it all seems like bad news, for such an idyllic haven.  A place to come back to in the future hopefully.  We startled a beach-combing family of kangaroos when we took off in the dinghy on our return to Sequoia.  Also saw a very large turtle near the jetty.

Brampton Island - all coconut trees & golden sands

The next day we left Brampton & headed further north to Shaw Island, near Lindeman Island for an overnight anchorage.  The tide here was ferocious, even though there was coral and a lovely shoreline, we were restricted to a very short walk (5 min) & jump back in the dinghy – as someone certainly let the bathwater out here, and we would certainly have been stuck “on Shaw” all night if we didn’t move real fast. During the night we heard certain bumping and bubble blowing on the hull, and presume the resident turtle was having a bit of a lick of Sequoia’s undersides.